Installing Iron Head Hydro Clutch

Originally Published In The May 2016 Issue Of Cycle Source Magazine


Going through the final stages of building “Board To Death” I realized that the engineering for the foot clutch that utitlized the clutch cable may not the best idea. I hate when I have to admit I’m wrong but that’s exactly what experimental bike building is all about. Lucky for me I happened across the website of the cats from Hydroclutch who have made this ingenuis little product for Ironhead Sporties. It is so simple that it seems crazy that no one ever thoguht of it before. You simply screw off your clutch adjustment nut on the primary and screw their unit in, well almost. Let’s take a look at this assembly.


Here you can see the Hydroclutch assembly as it comes, except for the banjo bolt that I added.


Like I said, you take off the stock nut.


On the inside of the primary cover you pull out the ball and ramp system that actuates the clutch on the stock set up and throw all the parts away. I would later find out that even the boss that’s pinned into the case has to go. All that should be left is the new hydraulic clutch unit.


The next step is to replace the primary cover and measure the distance from the bottom of the tamer (where the adjusting screw sits) to the raised collar of the primary cover. I used a piece of welding rod and made a mark with a marker.


The difference between the length you get from your measurment and the length of your adjusting screw is the amount you must cut off the adjusting screw.


Once the adjusting screw is cut off place some red loc tite on it and install it in the Hydroclutch unit with the supplied jam nut.


Here you can see the Fab Kevin master cylinder mount that I used to mount my KX250 master cyclinder unit for the foot clutch.


We also used some Slingshot Racing billet cups for reservoirs. From there it was a pretty easy deal. We ran a brake line to the


master cylinder, installed the unit into the primary cover and bled the hydraulic unit just like you would a brake caliper. They recommend you use Dot 5 brake fluid and there will be a little mess, so I’d say yes The only report that I have so far on this product is that it seems that for a foot control application you need a little more length on the adjusting screw than a hand clutch. We made that correction and it seems to be working like a charm. Look for an updated full report on the operation of this product next month.

2 thoughts on “Installing Iron Head Hydro Clutch

  1. these are not the most detailed instructions. You say cut off a section of bolt vs the measurement on your welding wire, yet you show the bolt shorter than the rod in one pic, and cut down in the next.

  2. What year M/C for a KX250 did you use? Is it an 11/16 bore for the system to work? Also, I contacted Fab Kevin and he advised he does not know the adapter used to connect the M/C. Any chance you can give me some info on that?

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