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Allagash Is A Village At The End Of The Road

Article And Photos By: Chopper Charlie

Originally Published In The March 2016 Issue Of Cycle Source Magazine

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On that cool spring morning the rooster crowed as the gentle rain drummed lightly on the roof of my tent. As I woke from my night’s sleep my eyes reluctantly opened with the realization that I would start yet another day in the rain. My aggravation washed away quickly as I unzipped my mint green tent and set my eyes on the St. John River. Today would be a special day regardless of what the weather had in store for me. This day marked the furthest distance I would reach on this trip from my home in Boulder, CO. In fact, it’s as far northeast as one can get in the United States. My home on this particular morning was the backyard of a good samaritan who so kindly took in this water logged, dirty and rather haggard looking biker. She went by the name of Darlene and resided in the quaint and picturesque village of Allagash, Maine. You see, I met Darlene not long after I stumbled into the Mooseshack Restaurant in Ft Kent. My intention when I entered this rustic roadside establishment was nothing more than to fill my empty stomach and inquire about camping in the local area. And that is exactly what I did. After a few moments of perusing the mouthwatering menu, Ft Kent’s friendliest and most informative bar-keep served me a hungry man sized burger. He told me about some potential camping up the road in a place called Allagash. It sounded interesting enough so I finished my meal, thanked the smiling barkeep, paid my bill and headed for the door. As I stepped onto the front porch I noticed a couple giving my motorcycle an inquisitive look (keeping their hands off it from fear of contracting some sort of incurable disease), then shifted their eyes to me as I came waddling over with a gut full of burger. We exchanged a few friendly words, talked about what I was doing in their neck of the woods and that, yes, I had in fact ridden this ratty looking chopper all the way from Colorado.

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Following our pleasant exchange, and entered through the door I had just exited. Fortunately for me as I was dragging my worn down heals while trying to decide my next move I had given the bartender enough time to tell the couple that I was looking for a place to stay. As I sat there staring blankly into the quiet streets of Ft Kent, Darlene walked back out and told me about her place in Allagash. She told me that she owned a diner by the name of Twin Rivers Lunch and that I would be welcome to set up camp on her property. Perfect, I thought, that is exactly what I would do. She gave me directions and told me to come by at any time. What a wonderful experience this turned out to be. I arrived at Darlene’s place and was given a warm welcome, along with a rather perfect little campsite just feet from the St. John River. We sat around the campfire and traded stories until well after dark. She gave me insight into the local way of life. She told me about the many ways folks made a living here and about the plethora of opportunities for the outdoor enthusiast. She also went on to tell me that in the morning, after a home cooked meal at her diner of course, I would have to continue a few more miles up the road, across the bridge, to where the pavement ends. So in the morning I set off as she directed and am I glad I did. I can’t explain to you the feeling you get when you realize that you have literally ridden to the end of the road and there is no option to go further. The best I can describe it as, is an odd mix of elation, sadness and a sense of accomplishment.

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Allagash is a village that will draw you in, wrap you in a warm blanket and allow you an opportunity to just be. You can let the worries of everyday life wash away, enjoy the rhythm of the St. John River and marvel at the unimaginable amount of stars shining through the clean, crisp north woods air. And there’s more. Not only is the pure natural beauty of the place one of postcard quality, but the people of the area are what truly put Allagash on the map. I’ve always believed that the most beautiful areas can be tainted by not so friendly locals. So when I find a place that is both pleasing to the eye and comforting to the soul I take notice and archive it into my rolodex of magical destinations. So, unless you prefer ugly places and grumpy locals, I highly recommend a chopper ride to Allagash, Maine. Yeah, it’s a bit of ride to get there but you won’t be let down. Roll into town and find a place to camp. In the morning, be sure to stop into Twin Rivers Lunch, say hello to Darlene, enjoy a warm breakfast and tell her I said hello. Allagash, Maine, where paradise is found at the end of the road.

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